Encanto Living
Malaga: a short, honest guide
Malaga stopped being a place people passed through on the way to Marbella about a decade ago. It now has more museums per resident than almost any Spanish city, a repaired old town and a food scene that is genuinely local rather than staged.
Where to eat
Atarazanas market for breakfast, any of the small bars on Calle Carreteria for lunch, and the chiringuitos at Pedregalejo in the evening for grilled sardines cooked over a boat full of embers. Avoid the restaurants with photographs of the food outside the cathedral.
What to see
The Alcazaba and the Roman theatre together take a morning. The Picasso museum is small enough to enjoy in ninety minutes. The Carmen Thyssen collection is the quiet one most people miss.
Beaches
La Malagueta is convenient but busy. Take the bus east to Pedregalejo or El Palo for wider sand and better food.
Good to know
- When is the best time to visit?
- May, June, September and October give warm sea, long days and manageable crowds. Winter is mild and very quiet.
- Do you need Spanish?
- No, but a few words are appreciated outside the tourist streets.